A Trip to England
Left Kaysville 7:08 A.M. May 27, 1874. Arrived at Ogden 7:45. Left Ogden at 9:00 A.M. Train stopped three minutes at Uintah. Although the train consisted of only ten cars yet the two engines appeared to labor hard going up Weber Canyon until the Bridge at Devils Gate was crossed when they increased their speed. The weather was cool and pleasant with indications of rain.
Shortly after leaving Weber station we passed through two tunnels, also crossed the Weber river several times the road appears to be in good condition, the bridges firm and substantial. About 1:00 o'clock our appetites began to remind us that something was necessary to strengthen the inner man and me and my
companion dined off cold chicken. Our whole company began to have more cheerful countenances. I feel confident that what ever object a person may have in view few can leave home, family and friends without a pang.
On approaching the head of Echo we found the grade very steep. Passed through another tunnel and saw for the first time in my life a steam shovel. After crossing the summit it commenced raining quite fast.
Arrived at Evanston at 1:30 P. M. Stopped half an hour for dinner. After leaving Evanston we passed through a number of long snow sheds.
From Bridger the road runs through quite a level country until it approaches Green River. On arriving at Green River I noticed quite a number of very pretty cottages evidently used by the employees of the Railroad Company.
We stayed twenty minutes for supper. Shortly after recommencing our journey we fixed for the night, had a comfortable night's rest although we did not sleep much. At day light on the 26th, passed Fort which has a very pretty clean appearance. Saw two boys in blue on Seubry. A few miles beyond on a small eminence to the left I noticed a solitary grave around which was a very neat enclosure which forcibly reminded me of my errand to search after my progenitors.
During the forenoon, deer or antelope were frequently in sight. The country from Bridger to Laramie is dry, barren and almost worthless for agricultural purposes. It looks as dry as September. Shortly after leaving Sherman we passed through several miles of broken country scattered thinly over which were Cedar trees which seemed to struggle hard for a stunted existence.
I forgot to mention Laramie at which place we took Breakfast at 10 o'clock. It is quite a thrifty looking place for its size. There is a very fine Hotel there. Arrived at Cheyenne at 2 o'clock P.M.· Stayed twenty minutes for dinner. Cheyenne appeared to be laid off with an eye to business but looks very different to our Utah settlements as there are no gardens, no water in the streets and scarce a tree to be seen while as far as the eye can reach every thing looks dry and barren. Rain, I am told, seldom falls here and everything seems to indicate that such is the case. I noticed quite a number of good buildings in the town. Here is a junction of the Denver road.
Shortly after leaving Cheyenne we struck a gently undulating plain or valley where but little expense had been Incurred preparing the road bed. This valley appeared of little use for agriculture, there being but little water and from all appearance very little rain falls, there being no timber and but little vegetation of any kind. Crossed the North Fork of the Platte about 2 A.M. The soil shows more moisture and as we pass on grass becomes abundant and here and there homesteads present themselves to view betokening civilization.
One hundred miles from Platte Bridge we passed the town of Kearney, a thriving little settlement. (Distance- from Ogden to New York 2435).
Breakfasted May 29th at 8 A.M. at Grand Island. We are now passing through a fine country for agriculture and erelong it will become a prosperous district. Already I see farm houses dotted in all directions. At the crossing of Loupfork the company have erected a very substantial wooden bridge resting on stone pillars.
North Bend 62 miles from Omaha, can produce more shade trees than all the rest of the towns we have passed since leaving Utah. Stopped 20 minutes at Fremont for dinner. (Fremont is 47 miles from Omaha) Shortly after saw the first fenced field since leaving Utah.
Arrived at Omaha at 3 P.M. ,after changing cars we crossed the Missouri River on the new Iron Bridge which is a beautiful structure. It bore the weight of the train apparently without a tremble. I could not but think of the difference between crossing this bridge and the difficulties encountered in crossing this stream twenty years ago. After crossing we were soon on board the Chicago V.M.W. Cars and in about thirty minutes started on our way to Chicago. Evidences of wealth began to multiply. I took a sleeping berth in a Pullman Car. Had a comfortable nights rest. In the morning a beautiful country presented itself to our view. Plenty of timber. Fine homesteads and well fenced fields together with the cattle feeding on the green pastures betokened ease and comfort. Breakfasted at London. I got a first class meal for seventy five cents. Throughout our journey from Council Bluffs to Clinton we traversed a beautiful rich verdure and as we rode along all nature seemed to smile. In every settlement Churches judging from the steeples are very abundant. Saw shortly before reaching Clinton a small flock of very fine sheep, the first we have seen.
(Traveled on C. and N.W. R.F. from Omaha to Chicago).
Fruit does not seem to be cultivated, scarce a fruit tree to be seen until nearing Clinton when an orchard occasionally presented itself to view. A great portion of the fruit trees seen had a kind of blasted appearance from which I should judge fruit cannot be successfully raised. Corn appears to be the staple crop though a great deal of land is sown to other grain which looks well.
The bridge across the Mississippi I should judge to be half a mile long which is divided by an Island. The stream is divided into three parts where being two Islands at about equal distances from each other. The scene up the Mississippi presented a very beautiful animated appearance. The shores being lined with fine buildings of almost all descriptions. I saw only one steam boat and as she steamed out from shore added beauty. At Fulton on the banks of the Mississippi we passed through some beautiful groves of Hickory. From Fulton to Sterling we passed through a very fine country every where ease and luxury presented itself to view. It reminded me forcibly by Its fine groves of timber trees, excellent green pastures, well cultivated fields, and handsome dwellings of certain spots I have seen in England in my youthful days.
Good orchards have been plentiful during the last hours travel, While passing along I felt in my heart to say how long 0 Lord shalt these people dwell at east seeing they have the and driven the saints of the most high from their midst. To the minds eye at this is stained with blood but the Lord will yet reckon with then and reward then according to their doings.
Stopped twenty minutes at Dixon for dinner. After leaving Dixon the country appeared less desirable, the soil did not appear as rich and the evidences of wealth were less frequent.
Arrived at Chicago at 3:15 P.M. Chicago is a great business center; I think it does more in exchanging commodities than in manufacturing. Looked around some. Passed under the Illinois river through a tunnel extending two blocks it is a cool respite from the heat. Then we saw some very fine blocks of buildings.
Started from Chicago at 5:15 P.M. on the Pittsburgh Ft. Wayne and traveled very fast, stopped at Plymouth 20 minutes for supper. (Traveled from Chicago to Pittsburgh on P.F.W. and C.R.R.)
Sunday May 51st. Mansfield, in Ohio, on the edge of which are some large red brick buildings which look so very nice as the rays of the morning sun shone upon them. 110 miles from Pittsburgh we passed through the tower of Nassilooon, is not more than three rocks wide which detracts largely from the appearance of the ocean. Hacane located near the R.F. back the celebrated threshing machine works of Russil Company. They are very extensive. The soil of Ohio in my judgement is far inferior to that of Illinois but much better timbered than aforeseen to be greatly encouraged. In many places the soil seems too poor for agriculture purposes.
Stopped twenty minutes at Alliance for Breakfast.
We continued through a very hilly country fully timbered but very poor soil. The timber is principally oak and birch. I noticed a snail variety of timber full of white blossoms which added greatly to the scenery.
Apple orchards are quite plenty, We have hat crossed New Brighton which is located on the banks of Beaver Creak, a shallow stream about 200 feet wide. Across this stream in addition to the railroad bridge is a neat covered one for teams and pedestrians. Close beside the railroad are the gas works. They are much smaller than the Salt Lake City works. A little further on we got a good view of the Ohio river quite a number of barges lay on its placid waters, the waters are clear and appear deep. It is not at all swift and is probably from one hundred to one hundred and fifty yards wide. We are now nearing Pittsburgh;have made fast time running, sometimes 40 to 50 miles an hour and as we fly along on the Rim side the scenery on the opposite shore is truly grand. Hills covered with trees beautiful in sheer May attire in white with farm houses and cultivated lands and here and there a small town. On this side of the river on which we are traveling the houses and other fine improvements indicate we are approaching some great city sent themselves to view. We have just entered Alleghany which is a very black dingy looking place which is not doubt caused by the large amount of coal consumed here in the manufacture of Iron and industry for which it is Pittsburgh is justly noted for coal judging from the great number of iron works which present themselves to view. The streets are ridiculourly narrow. I think they are not more than thirty feet wide on an average, some of the widest may be 40 feet. Alleghany is connected with Pittsburgh by four fine iron bridges so arranged that there is a separate track on each for the railroad, teams and pedestrians, at least this is the case with the one in which we crossed. What I have written of Alleghany is equally applicable to Pittsburgh. I have not seen a town yet since I left home but what it spoiled with narrow streets. We stayed but a short time in Pittsburgh, just long enough to change cars and now we are off again on the Pennsylvania R. R. As we run out I notice some five villages with beautiful laid off grounds.
I forgot when writing of Alleghany to mention a very prettily laid off promenade given evidently open to the public. After running out a few miles we bid adieu to the Ohio River and strike boldly into the hills; we follow the course of a small stream for a number of miles. The water of this stream is of a very rusty yellow color evidently denoting iron and coal. Away for miles and miles we wind our course among the hills of Pennsylvania, the country appearing poor, the crops look very bad which I do not wonder at when I look at the soil. Thousands of acres of the cultivated land which I have passed today the farmers of Utah would not stick a plow in.
After traveling about one hour and a half the country begins to improve; on our right are peaks, a Catholic monestery located on an eminence, the scene from which must be grand and sublime at the time the Alleghany Mountains covered with timber present themselves to our view. At Blourschills we strike the Conewall river, a small river. The Scenery is grand, the hills covered with timber almost undisturbed by the hand of man if I except the road on which we are traveling. Have just passed the first pine trees since leaving Omaha. Johnstown is a fine settlement evidently sustained by mining from this point we begin to ascent quite rapidly. We are now in the coal region and coal mines are quite frequent. We have just passed through a tunnel 3/4 of a mile long. On the summit of the Alleghany mountains, these mountains present a splendid sight to the tourist, we are traveling on the side of the mountains in many places on dug where a slight mishap might precipitate we would fall from 100 feet to several hundred into a stream below.
Suddenly as we turn a curve the town of Altoona is presented to our gaze and as we walk to our dinner I do not doubt we will do justice to a good supper which I certainly did. Just after starting from Altoona a very heavy rain storm came on.
I just saw a little girl carrying a cat and I wonder if Jimmy was carrying his kitten. We have passed through another tunnel. Just before reaching Huntington we struck the head of an animal. Huntington contains some fine hotels and other buildings. It is located on the banks of the Inriate River. I have not seen what I call a decent river since I left Chicago. About 10 P.M. crossed the Lusgrienhanah a broad tranquil stream, in my judgment full as wide as the Mississippi at Clinton. I think it is about 7/8 of a mile across the bridge.
Arrived at Harrisburg at 10:40 P.M. It is a handsome station and well lighted with gas. From Harrisburg to Philadelphia I tried to sleep. Arrived at Philadelphia at 2:40 A.M. while there it rained quite fast. The station is not as handsome as Harrisburg. As we left Philadelphia day light dawned upon us shortly after crossing the Schatkil. It got light enough to see the landscape which appears quite level, very fertile and altogether beautiful. Green meadows, rich fields of grain prettily laid off grounds. Trees with folige of various hues all tend to make things look lovely. The only thing I saw to mar the scene is the ridiculously narrow streets and roads. In many places the shade trees meeting across the streets. Trees are of only a few years growth. I presume we are now twenty miles from Philadelphia and I do not believe I have seen a street more than 40 feet wide. While some of the roads are not more than 1 rod wide. At Trenton we crossed a fine river. The station here is draped in mourning in honor of the President of the road who I learn is dead.
New Brunswick is quite a nice looking town. It boasts several churches, we are nearing New York and a most delightful morning, a beautiful shower (which we encountered at Philadelphia) had extended along the route since leaving there and made everything look nice. The company are well except myself, tired and dirty.
We crossed from the Jersey Shore to New York on the P.R.R.R. Company's ferry boat. We happened to meet W. C. Staines who directed us to the Stevens House where we engaged rooms and were well treated. After cleaning ourselves up and getting breakfast we engaged passage on board the steamer Idaho for Liverpool taking intermediate passage. Having got our tickets four of our company, myself included, visited the vessel and returned via Broadway which give us a good chance to see a little of New York. Crowds of people were traveling both ways, the street was full of teams. Street cars are not run on Broadway. The buildings in New York are very fine and large, being five and six stories high. Towards evening I took a look at the shipping, saw several Lake steamers on the river just starting out. They present a finer appearance than an ocean steamer. On Tuesday morning June 2,1874 myself and. two others visited Central park. Time prevented us from seeing much of this charming place which we were told covered an area of several miles. The grounds are beautifully laid off and ornamented with beautiful trees and shrubs of various kinds. The walks are paved with a kind of cement at once clean and solid. I noted the entrance to the part we visited is a large collection of animals, birds, and reptiles which attracted considerable attention. We returned from our visit to the Park much pleased with what we had seen. After getting breakfast we began to fix for our journey across the ocean.
About noon we left the Stevens house and took the street car to Pier No. 46 North River where the steamboat lay at anchor. We waited some little time before going on board as the vessel was taking on corn. By 3 P.M. the passengers were all on board. The mails were taken on and we steamed boldly out bidding farewell to New York for a while, Every thing seemed to move along all right and before night fall the pilot left us. All hands appeared to have an appetite for supper but the next morning quite a number did not want any breakfast. I was one among this number. Sea sickness soon began to tell upon me. I could not eat anything and continued vomiting for two days which made me feel very low. I kept on feeling sick and eating very little until about the sixth day when I commenced eating a little. At this time a pain
in my stomach affected me considerably.
June 9th. The vessel is making good time; fully expect to be in Liverpool on Saturday. We passed a sailing vessel this morning.
June 12th. 8 P.M. Land is in sight on our left and flashes from a light house show themselves at intervals of a few seconds.
June 13th. Dressed myself and went on deck at 4 A.M. where I had a good view of the coast. The land seems to be well cultivated, the houses neat and clean nearly all being painted white. About six o'clock we anchored outside of Queenstown harbor; here we stayed a short time for passengers to disembark here; also the mail was sent on shore. All being ready the boat which came along side to take off the passengers etc., was let loose and off it steamed for Queenstown. We were soon under way again traveling down the coast of lreland for several hours. Before Night fall the Welsh coast -was in view.
June 14th. Early in the morning we anchored near the bar at the mouth of Mersey where we stayed until about 8 o'clock when we again started, in an hour or two we were met by a small steam boat onto which the passengers and their luggage were transferred. This boat landed us on the docks where the luggage was inspected by the custom house officers; this being through with we started for 42 Islington street from whence we soon went to the Caldeonian Temperance Hotel, Stafford Street. Here myself and Stewart got dinner which I much enjoyed. In the evening we met with the Saints. All the newly arrived elders were called upon to speak which they did, baring their testimony to the truth of the work of God.
The congregation was small out the spirit of God was there which makes all feel well. On Monday.June 15th after breakfast we walked to Guion and Co's. office where we cashed our checks for money deposited with them in New York. We saw some very fine draft horses which attracted our attention. After dinner we visited the museum where we saw many curiousities, ancient relics and specimens of animals, fishes and birds. We afterwards paid a visit to a large collection of wax work figures life size, some of them were life like in appearance, the figure of one old gentleman in particular was so much like life that I really
thought it was an old gentleman resting himself. In the evening we visited the Theatre opposite St. George's Hall. The appearance of the building inside is not equal to Salt Lake Theatre, the play was tolerably well performed but a frequent noise in the rear caused by parties visiting the bar caused us some annoyance. On Tuesday morning June 16th we took train at the Sune Street Depot for Sandy at which place we arrived at about half past one P.M. This being my native place; as I walked down the street I really felt I was a stranger in the place of my birth. I did not meet with any one who knew me but after conversing with a lady whom I knew when she was a child I made myself known to her, she is the wife of an old acquaintance of mine and when I met her husband a day or two after he welcomed me like a brother. After looking around a little I returned to the station, hired a conveyance and was soon on the way to my wifes friends. I found my mother-in-law at home, I introduced myself under a fictitious name, she received me very kindly and I soon made myself known to her. Then my father-in-law came in I tried the same game but he knew me and made me welcome. After tea I went with my father-in-law to see my sister-in-law Jane. She did not know me but made many inquiries after her sister and myself, after a time I told her who I was when she welcomed me very heartily. Brother-in-law soon came in and to him I was introduced.. I found him a good hearted jovial sort of man. They have two children, a boy and a girl, the little girl said she would like to go back to America with me.
June 17th. I went with Wm. Shelton to Biggleswade, deposited a draft for one hundred pounds with Hogg Sinsdell and Co. And got measured for a suit of clothes. Here I fell in conversation with a young man named Keep who after learning where I was from spoke in an unbecoming manner of President Brigham Young I answered him rather sharply and after conversing a short time he asked me if I considered his remarks insulting, I told him I did when he asked pardon after this we conversed a short time with a better feeling.
After dinner I met with two of my cousins with whom I spent an hour or two quite agreeably. The next day I spent in visiting my cousin Ezra and his wife. I also saw a few old acquaintances among them my wifes cousins: Wm. Hull and John Franklin, they inquired very cordially after their cousin and sent their kind love to her. I also met with Wm. Foxley. The next day (Friday 19th) I went to Sandy on my way there I met with Hannah Dazelyand she was very pleased to hear from her nephews and nieces the Larkinses. She is a very small woman. I met with John Rawson who inquired after James Rycraft, said he yet had a sixpence James gave him. He was quite pleased to hear about him. When at my cousin Ezra's I saw John Layton and gave him LI 16.00-sent to him by his brother Christopher for which he appeared very thankful. Saturday the 20th I spent the forenoon in looking around the fields and at the steam threshing machine at work. It did not thresh near as fast as the machines do at home. The wheat although considered first class does not equal our best Utah Wheat. In the afternoon I went to Ickwell, took tea with Jane, called to see Aunt Mary Franklin whom I found to be a pleasant middle aged lady. Her mother was present, she is quite old and infirm. I also saw Johnny Asplin and wife. He is lame and his wife is almost feeble. Jane accompanied me in these visits, she also conducted me to the Berry. We had a look at the Horses Carriages and harness and a walk through the garden to the lake which is an artificial one, the house and surroundings are altogether beautiful, but when I reflected how many in the surrounding villages struggle hard to support this magnificence in the shape of rent it cast a dark shade over all. It seams as much as a great many can do to keep poverty from their doors rents being very high.
Sunday 21st. Got a letter from Bro. Stewart, came to spend the day with me. In the afternoon we met with the saints (few in number) and enjoyed ourselves first rate. We took tea with Sister Young. In the evening we met with a few friends at Wm. Shelton’s among the rest Wm. Wakes and his wife Wm. Foxley.
Monday 22nd. Wrote up my journal in the morning, went to Ickwell with Mr. and Mrs. Shelton, dined with Wm. and Jane and in the afternoon visited Mrs. Young, also Mary Norman and her daughter Anne whom we found in midling health. We took tea with Aunt Humphries whom we found in rather poor health. I think she is dropsical. After tea went to Ickwell and called on Aunt Mary with whom we drank a glass of ginger wine. Had quite a pleasant chat with her father. We rode home.
Tuesday 23rd visited Mr. George Crawley with whom I spent a very pleasant day. He was very kind. We visited the Peel mansion and were very kindly shown through the grounds by the gardener; it is a delightful place in a very antic location. We also visited old Mr. Jeeves, Wm. Miller, James Watts and wife, Joseph Sutton, Same. Skiliter and his daughter Jane, James Denton, Miss Fane and Mrs. Thurley and Mrs. Gregory. In the evening returned to Wm. Sheltons, got a new suit off Mr. Keep for which I paid him L4.7.00. Rained for several hours, it was much needed.
Wednesday 24th. Stewart having spent the night with me, after breakfast Mr. Shelton drove us to Sandy Station where we took a train for Cambridge at which place we arrived at 9:10 AM. My cousin Mary was on the platform ready to receive us. I knew her at first sight which surprised me as she was only a girl when I last saw her. She conducted us to her home where we took lunch and rested a short time after which she conducted us to Mr. Stewart's relatives where we took dinner during the day we visited the Cambridge Fair. The horses present were of a very low grade generally. The chief attraction was riding ciruses or whirligigs for children run by steam. I did not think much of the fair.
Thursday 25th. We left Cambridge at 10:10 A.M. for Ipswitch. We had a pleasant journey, the crops upon the whole look poor. So far as I have traveled in England I do not think the crops any better than are raised in Utah. I am told the season has been very dry. A great deal of the hay will not produce more than one ton per acre. On arriving at Ipswitch I recognised my Aunt who with my cousin was waiting to receive us. We found the town very gaily decorated with flags, evergreens, etc. A military band was playing at the depot and paraded the streets after the arrival of the trains. I found my aunt and cousin well and my uncle, although very lame, as well as usual. After getting dinner Mr. Stewart, myself and cousin Matilda visited the flower and vegetable show. The display of flowers was quite large and exceedingly beautiful showing great care and skill in their cultivation. A few large plants the leaves of which were flowers in themselves were very beautiful, also some magnolia coxcombs as well as fuchias, greraniums, etc. The display of vegetables and fruits was very fine among which I noticed two grape vines in pots with 6 or 7 bunches of grapes on each. After we were through with the show my cousin took us through some of the principal streets which were beautifully decorated with flags of all nations hanging across the streets, various mottoes and decorations of evergreens together with the bells ringing and thousands of people promenading the streets made our walk quite delightful. In the evening we witnessed a grand display of fireworks the last piece of which was "Come Again Tomorrow".
